12 September - Day 142 - Starting the last 187 miles

From Stevens Pass/Skykomish (Mile 2476) to campsite at Lake Janus (Mile 2485.6)

Total PCT Miles: 9.6

Took our time assembling our resupply and rolling out of the Dinsmores. It was a fun place to stay. They have a sprawling property and we set up under a grove of massive cedar trees.

We are so much slower in and out of towns than we used to be. It is a serious uphill battle to find the umph to get out of the vortex. In many ways we would rather read the newspaper and eat back to back lunches than make a quick return to be trail. We also now walk like semi decayed zombies in town.

After an extensive late breakfast we hitched back to the pass.

Dionysus demonstrating his ingenious hitch-hiking identifier (no, we're not homeless -- we're PCT hikers).

Our luck held and we had a hitch in five minutes. Our driver Jim worked for Cascadia Designs so we passed on our gratitude for our glorious sleeping pads.

When we finally got back to the trail all of us were pretty wobbly. Our legs just aren't what they used to be. So we decided to make it an early night rather than overextend and burn ourselves out at the beginning of a tough section.

The smoke from the fire in the Wenatchee National Forest to the west is hazing the mountain views. Giant Glacier Peak and distant Mt Baker -- that point the way north for us -- are dimmed. What a terrible year for fire for the PCT.

Glacier Peak obscured by smoke. Our trail goes right over to the mountain and then circles around it on the left side.

Glacier Peak.

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11 Sept Photos

Frost and frozen tents in the morning. Shoes frozen hard. Pan making coffee in his sleeping bag.

Frozen tents atop the pass. Frost on the ground. Waiting for the sun to thaw us.

Seano & Pan on the trail below the camping site.

We spent half the hike today with Freebird (on the left) and Thing2 (on the right). Such good trail company.

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11 September - Day 141 - Waking to Ice

From ridgetop campsite above Trap Lake (2463.7) to Stevens Pass/Skykomish (Mile 2476)

Total PCT Miles: 13.7

Sean-o here. Last evening, we hiked up to our first snow/sleet blow of the season. With light running out, we threw down our tents on a ridge 12 miles short of Stevens Pass, laughing and swearing in turns. Our shoes and pants were very wet, as was our rainfly from rain the night before. We got into our sleeping bags as quickly as possible to try to out-sleep the wind and cold.

We woke to a clear morning, though we figured the temps were down in the mid-20s. My shoes were two frozen bricks forcing me to answer the call of nature in stocking feet. I then returned to my sleeping bag, stuck my shoes in a bag, and proceeded to thaw them on my belly. The romance of nature at its most raw! We hunkered down to await the sun rather than try to stuff a whole lot of frozen stuff into frozen backpacks with our frozen fingers.

The view from our campsite. Not bad.

It worked, and by 10 am we were back on the trail hiking down to the pass, joining Freebird and Kate, to resupply at Skykomish and Baring.

Freebird, Seano, Dionysus, Pan, and Thing2.

We didn't even have time to put on our less-smelly town shirts when a super generous section hiker and PCT volunteer from Redmond pulled up and offered us a ride to the Dinsmore's, well-known trail angels in Baring.

We ate a delicious dinner of specialty sandwiches at the town store, cafe, and antique shop (thanks Nancy!) ordered others to go, then showered and set up our tents in the spacious yard while Mrs. D did our laundry. (thanks, Andrea!)

The bunkhouse was full of thru-bees at various stages of disrepair and injury. Zippy has had to leave the trail with a foot injury with less than 250 miles to go. Her hubby is continuing on, bit it's an example of the kind of heartbreak that happens as people try to coax this last push out of these busted up feet. We read that Moonwalker has left the trail. We hear that Big Bird has returned to the UK, also quitting the trail. Many more we hear of -- even while we get news of some buddies of ours finishing at the northern terminus in Canada.

The Dinsmore's was a very cool, friendly place to grab a little rest and camaraderie before we hobble on. They deserve their great rep.

10 Sept Photos

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10 September - Day 140 - Mist, Rain, Mountains & Frozen Feet

Campsite above Waptus Lake (Mile 2441) to ridgetop campsite above Trap Lake (2463.7)

PCT Miles today: 22.7

Pan here. What a day of moody marvelous mountains --snow, sleet, freezing cloud, sunshine, wind-- steep crags we traversed, and raging snow-fed mountain rivers.

Dionysus here. Another magical moody hike. The clouds hung low all day long as we traversed several big climbs up to craggy passes through hemlock and fir. For much of the hike the clouds whirred around us leaving a trail of dew that absolutely covered the understory - pretty, really pretty, but It means sopping wet legs and feet. Then it rained and rained and at the top of the passes it snowed and deleted and the clouds just froze to the trees. Then the clouds would open briefly to a pristine patch of blue clarity just long enough for the clouds to rearrange themselves and it would rain and rain and sleet and rain and rain. Snowy peaks!

Wow. What a climate to produce that kind of moisture and variation in September. When we finally did find a camp platz on top of a ridge the whole tent and everything froze solid.

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9 September - Day 139 - More moody mizzly days

Snoqualmie River Bridge via Goldmyer Hot Springs Alternate Trail (11.4) to campsite above Waptus Lake (Mile 2441)

Total miles: 19

Dionysus here. People imagine days like today when they begin thinking about a thruhike. People are out here for days like today.

We woke to fog and moody mizzly rain.

Everything was wet but you couldn't help brushing against the huckleberry and getting a foot full of water. For hours we followed the Snoqualmie River up the valley, through the old old growth and rising mists. The peaks around us were obscured, then the clouds would shift and give way to a snow field floating high above, or a mangled cliff face looming overhead, then the window would close and all the cloud would again prevail.

After following the river all the way to its source we jumped over the pass to the next valley over and made camp above a low lake near where the alternate rejoins the pct. Then it rained all night -- but how snug and fairly dry we stayed!


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8 September - Day 138 - Alpine Lakes Wilderness

From Snoqualmie Pass (Mile 2402) via Goldmyer Hot Springs Alternate Trail to Snoqualmie River Bridge (11.4)

Total Miles: 11.4

Dionysus here. Our town days have become sprawling and protracted affairs. Once in town our battered and defeated bodies give way to the simple comfort of beds and cushioned seats and we become nearly immobile. Ice cream is nearly the only incentive we have to move at all. I honestly don't know how we make it back to the trail. Well, we've come this far ...

This particular town/vortex was Snoqualmie Pass. It was a convenient stop in that the restaurant was inside the hotel and ice cream was right next door. We had planned on an early break instead, despite being fully packed early in the day, we stayed past second lunch before mustering the momentum to get back to the trail.

We decided to take an alternate route out of town which would take us by a hot springs so we could soak our bones. The springs didn't work out in the end but the hike was really beautiful. It started out a very full tourist-thronged weekend trail (bumper to bumper) but by the five-mile mark, around Snow Lake, the trail emptied out a bit and got really gorgeous. 

Pan and Seano at Snow Lake (Dionysus is the photographer).

From Snow Lake the path became increasingly overgrown -- dangerously so -- with blow-downs and crumbling trail edges on steep rocky slopes. It would be very easy to twist an ankle on this remote alternative route (we don't recommend it really). But for SoBo's, this would be less snowy than the high peaks passage.

Makeshift bridges provided by big trees was always the norm in the Cascades.

 By the time we got to the Goldmyer camp, it was beginning to drizzle. No room at the inn, alas, so we had to camp outside the Goldmyer boundary the other side of a nice bridge beside the river.

We camped on the banks of the river next to a very old cedar (800 or 900 years old).

It rained and thundered in the night for the first time since Oregon. Enchanting!


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7 September - Day 137 - too tired

From makeshift camp beyond spring (Mile 2379.4) to Snoqualmie Pass (Mile 2402)

Total PCT Miles: 22.6

Too tired to post much info. But hot showers and soft beds should bring us back to articulation. We did get to listen to the recording of Pres. Obama's nomination speech at the restaurant. Outstanding!

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6 September - Day 136 - Loving the Pacific Northwest

From Urich Cabin (Mile 2355.7) to makeshift camp beyond spring (Mile 2379.4)

Total PCT Miles: 23.7

Sevda hiked with us today. She's such cheery company - plus is a wealth of knowledge on local flora & fauna -- a big plus for us.

We hiked through logged hills -- weaving in and out through patches of older and newer timber. And the huckleberries today were fabulous. We couldn't resist. We had blue-stained teeth and lips most of the day.

Wind in the east brought smoke haze over the Cascades. A fire near Yakima (& another in Idaho?) back behind us and to the east. What a combustible year.

Much conversation among us while hiking about how awesome it might be to live in Seattle. What a culture for adventure the city apparently shares with Colorado. The Olympics, the Sound, the Cascades, Mt Rainier -- the city is surrounded by wild beauty.



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5 September - Day 135 - News from the world

Sheep Lake (Mile 2334.1) to Urich Cabin (Mile 2355.7)

Total PCT Miles: 21.6

The sunrise mirrored this morning in the perfectly still waters below the steep subalpine mountain slopes. Gray jays came and took crumbs from my hand as I lay in my sleeping bag having coffee and shortbread cookies.

We got going about 7:45.

The woods today have been the usual beautiful woods. Noble firs and Alaska yellow cedars, Pacific silver firs and hemlock & some Douglas-fir. We followed in the tracks of elk that had been on the trail just before us. Hunters with bows are scouring the woods up here, so we wish the elk luck and long lives. Slopes of huckleberry turning plum and auburn.

On a high ridge we got some iPhone coverage so uploaded a bunch of photos onto our trail journal blog. Then we got news from the Democratic National Convention. We liked what we read. Apparently the first night got off to a good start. It gave us plenty to chat about on the trail.

We hiked and hiked today in the Norse Peak Wilderness, until the great mass of Rainier gradually turned and we saw a new side (northeast).

This evening we have been singing with Sevda at Government Meadows Cabin built in '92 that's used by backcountry hikers & skiers, etc. as a shelter. Big meadow here is getting ripe early autumn colors in it.

We had a lovely dinner singing with Sevda -- who is not only a botanist, gourmand, farmer, and adventurer, but a lovely singer. Wowie.

We hung our backpacks and our food bags to keep the cabin's mice out of it, then laid out our pads and bags to sleep inside.

The squeak of mice in the night was kinda cute -- but the distant bugling of elk reverbing from meadow and mountain was uncanny, unearthly, and enchanting.



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4 September - Day 134 - Summer Slopes in September

From Campsite above pond (Mile 2313) to Sheep Lake (Mile 2334.1)

Total PCT Miles: 21.1

William O. Douglas Wilderness and Rainier National Park.

Hoot-ta hoot hoot hoot! Hoot-ta hoot hoot hoot! Sean-o here. It's midnight and I'm awake listening to a Great Horned Owl across Sheep Lake and waiting for sleep to return. Not as cold tonight, but still moisture is condensing on the rain fly.

We'll soon crack the "300 miles to go" barrier as we race late summer northward through the Cascades. We also seem to be racing holes--holes in the top of my shoes, a hole in my sleeping sheet I had to sew up, and holes in all of our socks. (Sorry Smartwool; always loved you, but your socks and shirts don' have what it takes for thru-hiking.) There also seem to be holes in our stomachs that no amount of ramen and Heath bars can fill. Chris especially could go all locust on a Chinese buffet and wreck their profit margin for a week. He'd probably get arrested. :-)

With the end approaching, I've got a bit of the midnight worries: returning to Boulder and finding a new place to live, getting the money flowing again, etc. I try not to let it derail my enjoyment of these amazing places and this amazing experience, but sometimes the frets leak in. The trail still has things to tell me.

One thing I don't have to worry about is my mom. She came through the procedure with honors and a clean bill o' health. Got the text from my sister Lynne while atop a remote ridge in the Wm. O. Douglas Wilderness and let out a whoop. Reached her tonight and she was curled up on the couch waiting for Michelle O. to speak at the DNC. All's right with the world.


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3 September - Day 133 - Lakes & Trees &cet

From White Pass (2303) to campsite above pond (Mile 2313)

Total PCT Miles: 10

Short day after calorie-loading at White Pass.

Views of Rainier are ever more stunning.





We also finally got to meet the fabulous Train, who is hiking the entire PCT in wedding gowns. He looked dazzling in today's selection.

Here's a photo of Train taken by Rattlebee some days before.

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2 September - Day 132 - The Goat Rocks Ridge & Views of Rainier

From Walupt Creek (Mile 2277) to White Pass (2303).

Total PCT Miles: 26

Sean-o here. Woke up cold and wet and had to hike it off. But the experience of the Goat Rocks Wilderness made it all worth it. With Rainier, Adams, and Mt. St. Helen's as the backdrops, we hiked into one of the most stunning valleys of the trip. It wasn't surprising that there were dozens of dayhikers and weekend packers moving along the various trails that move up and down the slopes and onto the peaks. It was just one "Wow!" after another.

Mt. St. Helens off to the west-southwest.

That's our trail running down through blooming alpine terrain. So lovely!

Seano took this photo of Dionysus and Pan hiking along the PCT with Mt. Adams in the background.

Looking northwest toward Mt. Rainier, the most beautiful volcano of them all.

Mt. Rainier

Dionysus and Mt. Rainier.

Getting SUCH delicious water running down through the mountain heath.

One of the many views in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Seano snapped this photo as Dionysus and Pan headed down the PCT.

From there, we were determined to reach White Pass and a bit of civilization there, this despite Pan rolling his ankle on a gravelly slope.

But Dionysus was the big hero of the day. With time running out for us to reach the convenience store before it closed, he sprinted out ahead to get our resupply box and a night of eats before the clock struck 7.

Ignore the snow in this map. It was green. We approached from the Goat Rocks in the upper right, and cut down a trail just under the Couloir Express ski lift furthest to the right, thinking we were on the right track. Nope. When we reached the "bottom" we still had half a mountain to go -- and had to follow a "Base Area Access" road through the trees connecting the two mountains and then onto "Main Street" -- a blue run heading down to the base. As fast as we were running, we never saw Dionysus anywhere ahead of us -- and we could see a long way. But he went the same way, the same route, and got to the store 30 min. ahead of us. Dionysos Soteros!

He cut down along the White Pass ski area thumping his legs mercilessly, arriving a full half hour before the doors closed, having busted out a 26-mile day. Pan and I stumbled in just before closing to pick up a couple more things then carry our stash of calories up the slope to the neighboring ski motel where we spent the night. Rustic!

Dionysus and I stayed in the upper loft reached by a 10 foot ladder. Our poor feet were not happy about that, but our full stomachs went some way to make up for it.

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1 September - Day 131 - To Goat Rocks Wilderness

From Lava Rock Spring (Mile 2257.9) to Walupt Creek (Mile 2277)

Total PCT Miles today: 19.1

Dionysus here.

Our days are shorter now. The light works pale and slant - mornings take long to fill up. The huckleberry leaves look burnt, the berries just past ripe. Whispers of autumn grow clearer with every step.

This morning we shook the sleep off slowly to find a layer of frost coating the flowers and trees. Ice had formed in the spring below our camp and hopefully a few more mosquitos woke to find they are no longer mosquitos. We hiked out in long underwear and layers, sampling the huckleberries as we went.

The day seemed short – just a quick jaunt between camps, between times spent in the coziness of the sleeping bag with Terry Pratchet.

We found another beautiful spring for camp tonight and set up for an even colder freeze. Autumn is coming & it is here.





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31 August - Day 130 - Up onto Mt Adams

From Road 23 (Mile 2237.5) to Lava Rock Spring (Mile 2257.9)

Total PCT Miles today: 20.4

Pan here.

The day started out comfy & cozy, got really majestic, then devolved into a long dusty, sandy slog on trails until we set up camp as the light failed. Back to comfy and cozy, then. :-)

We woke at Kelly's B&B, got our packs packed with the new food and supplies, then went downstairs for a lovely breakfast of eggs, sausages, fresh fruit, and huckleberry pancakes with jam and syrup. One Pole was staying at the B&B, too, and we chatted with him. He has decided to quit the trail. We hear every few days, it seems, of someone deciding to leave the PCT.

We hopped into our Trail Angel's SUV (I phoned him the night before-- think of it: in a tiny town this size, they have a list of more than dozen different Trail Angels willing to transport PCT hikers to and from the trailhead!!! Amazing!) and away he took us the 13 miles back to our trailhead.

The trail quickly ascended onto the flanks of the impressive glacier-clad Mt Adams, and the views just became more spectacular. The sides of these big volcanoes get summer pretty late in the season -- the snows haven't been gone long now-- so the flowers have to do double-time to grow, bloom, pollinate, seed, and go dormant again (or re-seed). So although all around Mt Adams the plant world is in late summer/early autumn, here on Adams's sides, it's high summer again, with fragrant lupine, paintbrush, valerian, phlox, buttercups, penstemon, bistort and towering corn-husk lilies. And, naturally, mosquitoes. The lively creeks and flowering subalpine meadows of Adams were such a joy. To the west loomed huge, squat Mt St Helen's. To the north-northwest, vast and towering Rainier covered in vast glaciers just kept pulling at our attention. It's vast! Off to the south, we could see the receding pinnacle of Mt Hood. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.

Mt. St. Helens

Mt. Rainier.

Mt. Adams.

The day stayed fair, and the air cool. As evening came on and we hiked on and on in dusty horse-pounded trails, we had to focus on staying the course. Our feet hurt now, it seems, more and more for longer each day. We get hungry quickly - but can't barely stand the food in our packs. We joke uproariously at the pains and aches and difficulties. And that sure helps us cope with what is, frankly, the most difficult endeavor any of us has tried or imagined. Very very hard. We held up the map of the whole PCT today on the trail to get a sense of just how far we've come. After a few moments of considered silence, one of us said quietly: "Only someone out of their $&@¥ mind would do such a thing." "Absolutely bonkers," one of us agreed. "It's the sane ones who quit." (and so the conversation went ... ) we then agreed that unreasonable achievement must be the result of unreasonable dedication, then toasted our lunacy with tequila. Nuts.

But, despite the kvetching, at least half the day we spent in the "wow" and "oh boy" mode ... Which makes this a good day.

Camped tonight above a gorgeous spring dammed up where it emerges from a high-piled lava field. Ramen supper. Tequila courtesy of Dionysus. A few mozzies courtesy of Adams. And cold air pushing us quickly into tents, long underwear, wool socks, and down sleeping bags. Cold tonight! g'night!


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31 August Photos

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